Thanks to GOTS, IVN and Co: recognising sustainable fashion at a single glance.

Sometimes it is not so easy to see at a quick glance at a garment and its label whether it has really been produced sustainably, under social conditions and without any health hazards for the manufacturer and the wearer. A few labels and certificates are very helpful here, as they can give you a good feeling at a glance and help you make some decisions when buying. We have listed the most important ones here:

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard):

GOTS is one of the strictest seals in the textile sector. The seal stipulates that basically all products bearing the GOTS seal are made of at least 70 percent organically produced natural fibres, it then bears the designation "made from x% kbA/kbT fibres". For the stricter GOTS label "Bio" and "kbA/kbT", a proportion of 95 percent is required.

In addition, chemical substances contained in the textiles must meet certain criteria for environmental and health compatibility. Toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, functional nanoparticles or genetically modified organisms are prohibited, as are accessories made of PVC, nickel or chrome. It no longer allows exceptions for the fibre content of plastics and viscose for socks, leggings and sportswear. Product quality standards for colour fastness and dimensional stability (shrinkage values) are also mandatory. In addition, production sites within the production chain must meet minimum social criteria of the International Labour Organisation (ILO). The seal is also constantly improving. Recently, manufacturers of approved chemicals have also had to meet environmental, health and safety requirements, as well as certain environmentally sound standards for energy and water.

IVN:

Anyone who attaches particular importance to ecologically compatible products when buying clothing or leather goods should look out for the labels of the IVN. There are two label variants: The blue label "Naturtextil IVN zertifiziert BEST" is for natural textiles, while the red one is for natural leather.  Both labels stand for the strictest requirements for sustainably produced textiles and leather goods worldwide. For leather, it is even the only sustainable seal.

The IVN BEST certifies the entire production chain. From the extraction of the natural fibres to the production of the fabric to the finished product. High environmental standards, long durability, a ban on substances hazardous to health and mandatory compliance with social standards ensure sustainable garments in every respect. Even the natural fibres as raw materials must come from organic production.

• Substances that are hazardous to health, harmful to the environment or non-degradable are banned throughout the manufacturing process.
• Synthetic fibres are not permitted. (Exception: trims or elastic parts).
• Buttons, buckles and similar ingredients (except zips) must be made of organic material or metal.
• Social standards according to the guidelines of the ILO (International Labour Organisation) must be observed.

Since 2000, the International Association of the Natural Textile Industry has awarded the label, which is only valid for 1 year and is strictly regulated and checked annually. Sanctions are imposed in case of non-compliance. Its very strict requirements ensure that only a few companies have their textiles certified.

Bluesign Product

The focus of Bluesign certified products is on environmental impact and the use of chemicals in textiles along the entire manufacturing chain, starting with the chemical industry. Especially textiles made of synthetic fibres are tested, where critical and banned chemicals can be used in printing, dyeing or coating. This concerns, among other things, functional and sports clothing in which artificial fibres are responsible for the product properties.

The label regulates hundreds of chemicals. These are excluded from the outset in production. The residues in Bluesign-certified end products are mostly strongly controlled, but some of the particularly harmful PFCs have levels that could be significantly limited. In addition, there is a lack of strict limits and effluent tests to verify the actual environmental impact of some chemicals.

Bluesign does not exclude any fibres - everything from natural to synthetic fibres to recycled goods can be certified. Even for recycled fibres, certain criteria apply to exclude hazardous substances.

EU Ecolabel

Textiles with the EU Ecolabel, which is part of the EU Flower, are "greener and healthier" products claiming to reduce harmful substances as well as air and water pollution. Although the EU Ecolabel has an extensive list of chemicals, its limit values are rather low compared to the above-mentioned labels. And only a few laboratory analyses are mandatory on the end product.

In addition, all types of fibres, including recycled fibres from PET bottles, are permitted. The possible toxic ingredients are to be excluded and water consumption reduced. There is also still some room for improvement in the social standards.

Eco-Text Standard 100

This certification checks the residues of harmful substances on the end product. Environmentally damaging production chains and the use and handling of chemicals are not tested.  It is above all a very widely used consumer protection certification: the Öko-Standard has four product classes depending on skin contact. Baby clothes (class I) are the most strictly regulated. At the product level, the Öko Standard 100 is about as strict as GOTS. When tested, it also allows poorly recyclable mixed fibres and recycled fibres.

Fair Wear Foundation

The Fair Wear Foundation is committed to improving social conditions in the textile industry and living wages. It formulates guidelines, carries out inspections and reports transparently and regularly on the progress of its member companies.

About 80 companies with a total of about 120 brands are members of the Fair Wear Foundation (FWF), including eco-fair brands such as Hess Natur or Nudie Jeans, but also conventional manufacturers such as Takko, Jack Wolfskin or Continental Clothing.  However, the label may only be attached to clothing if the company has been a member for more than one year and has been classified in the highest category, i.e. fulfils all requirements for fair working conditions as far as possible.

PeTA Approved vegan

For vegans, the PeTA approved vegan label is still valid. It indicates that the product bearing the label does not contain any non-textile materials of animal origin, such as silk, wool, down, fur or leather.

The label is available free of charge to companies after they have completed a questionnaire and signed a declaration of assurance. The subsequent licence agreement with PeTA can be concluded either product-related or for the entire company.

However, this label has nothing to do with sustainable, environmentally and socially responsible production.

RWS

The Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) is a worldwide voluntary standard for producers of new wool. A total of 15 brands have already signed up to it. RWS guarantees that the wool was obtained without mulesing. However, the standard does not prohibit the use of chemicals. If wool also carries a GOTS label, you can be sure that you are holding a sustainable product in your hands.

If you want to know more about how you can still recognise sustainable and quality clothing when shopping, read our last blog post here. And if you want to know why fashion is a dirty business, read more here.

To be completely on the safe side when choosing your garment, we have summarised our tips for high-quality clothing:

• Avoid clothes that look like they have been produced in a poor quality (crooked or open seams, loose buttons, etc.).
• Stay away from clothes that don't smell good.
• Look at the label and look for natural fibres and labels
• Only buy clothes that really fit
• Do not buy new clothes with a used look
• Check if the garment can be combined with other clothes in your wardrobe.